Gjirokastër is a city in southern Albania, on a valley between the Gjerë mountains and the Drino, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, described as “a rare example of a well-preserved Ottoman town, built by farmers of large estate”. The city is overlooked by Gjirokastër Fortress, where the Gjirokastër National Folklore Festival is held every five…

When the cart moves, it makes music. It’s a combination of the horse’s hooves, the wheels on the cobblestones, and the tinkling of the “cassa di fuso.” Every cart is a masterpiece. It’s the fruition of three types of ancient crafts – and these jobs no longer exist. There are no more iron mongers; there’s…